A journey through the oldest winemaking area in Umbria
The city of Orvieto was already old when it took the name of Urbs Vetus; its origins actually date back to the Villanova period. Orvieto is situated in an unusual position, on a tufaceous platform with steep rocky walls, on a hill formed of layers of clay. The geological components of this area - which derive from the fires of the Volsinii volcanoes and later erosion by water - and the strange but favourable microclimate typical of the Paglia and lower Tiber valleys, are the reason for the winemaking tradition that has been linked to the city since time immemorial.
Whether or not Orvieto can be identified with the ancient, mythical Oinarea, "the city where wine flows", it is nonetheless one of the few cities in the world whose name coincides with the name of the wine made there. Many archaeological remains testify to vines and wine, from the Etruscan frescoes of Golini and other necropoli, to the mosaic torn from the cathedral of Orvieto and today displayed in London, and the Medieval and Renaissance ceramics in the museums of Orvieto.
Above all, the beautiful Cathedral of Orvieto with its marble bas-reliefs dedicated to vines, rightfully numbered among the most important historical-artistic treasures in the world.
Pope Niccolò IV laid the first stone of the cathedral on 13th November 1290, and dedicated it to Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo. The church was originally Romanesque in style but was later transformed into Gothic style during the 14th century, especially by the Sienese architect Lorenzo Maitani, Andrea Pisano and dell'Orgagna. Arnolfo di Cambio was employed to design the interior of the church, although Maitani gave his name to the overall project. As well as countless works of art the interior contains frescoes by Beato Angelico and Luca Signorelli in the San Brizio chapel (Stories of the AntiChrist, The End of the World, The Resurrection of the Flesh, The Elect, The Universal Judgment) which inspired Michelangelo in his work on the Sistine chapel.
Other fundamental sources of cultural and winemaking history in Orvieto are the church and cloister of San Giovanni, which date back to 916. Today the latter houses the Palazzo del Gusto and the Enoteca Regionale dell'Umbria (tel.0763341818).
Near Piazza Cahen, overlooked by the Albornoz fortress, is the famous San Patrizio well, dug by order of Pope Clement VII to ensure a water supply in case of siege. The Pope took refuge in faithful Orvieto to escape the sack of Rome in December 1527. Five years later Antonio Sangallo finished digging the sixty-two metre well, which is circular in shape and thirteen metres wide with seventy-two windows and two independent spiral staircases. An inscription at the entrance explains: QUOD NATURA MUNIMENTO INVIDERAT INDUSTRIA ADIECIT - what nature denied (water), the ingenuity of man supplied.
Given its extraordinary position on the steep tufaceous cliffs, it is indispensable to seethe town in perspective from the high hills of the Paglia valley, and then enjoy visiting the towns and countryside outside its gates, on an itinerary dotted with hermitages, holy places and wonderful Umbrian landscapes.
It is practically vital at this point to continue the route (with frequent digressions) as far as Bolsena, Orvieto's "twin" town: Orvieto (formerly Volsinii) was destroyed in 264 BC by the Roman consul Publio Flacco, and the citizens who escaped the slaughter were deported on the banks of the beautiful nearby volcanic lake to found Volsinii Novi - Bolsena. In Medieval times a miracle brought the cities together, and created the financial and cultural circumstances for the foundation of the cathedral of Orvieto.
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ORVIETO CATHEDRAL
"detail of the façade frieze" |
